After our breathtaking half-day tour of the Alhambra, it was time to refuel. We grabbed lunch at the top—a classic ham sandwich hit the spot.
We split up for the descent. Barb and I took the minibus down while the guys walked. Somehow, we all arrived back at the bottom at the same time.
Perfect timing for our next stop: ice cream. Javier had recommended a place called Los Italianos, this spot is a Granada classic.
From there, we strolled through the historic heart of Granada toward the Royal Chapel. The walk itself was a treat—narrow cobblestone streets, leafy plazas, and a series of striking statues along the way. One of the most memorable depicted Queen Isabella offering her support to Columbus, a powerful reminder that we were walking through a city layered with history.
The Royal Chapel of Granada, built in the early 1500s, was designed as the final resting place for Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand II, the Catholic Monarchs who reclaimed Granada from Muslim rule in 1492. That same year, they funded Columbus’s first voyage—so when people say this little chapel holds the turning point of world history, they’re not wrong.
We stepped inside and immediately felt the weight of the space. Golden altarpieces gleamed in the candlelight, and the architecture was full-on Gothic glory.
Then we descended into the crypt—the actual burial chamber. That’s when Bob looked at me and said, “You better check your ghost app. If it doesn’t go off here, it’s not legit.” I did. And of course… nothing. We had a good laugh, but I was secretly hoping to find something.
What made this place even more compelling was the unexpected cast of characters buried here. Alongside Isabella and Ferdinand rest their daughter, Joanna the Mad, and her husband, Philip the Handsome.
Joanna (Juana la Loca) inherited the crown of Castile after Isabella’s death, but her life was far from charmed. She married Philip, a ridiculously good-looking Habsburg prince, and they had six children. But when Philip died suddenly in 1506, Joanna was overcome with grief. Rumors spread that she lost her mind—some say she refused to part with his body, even traveling with his coffin. Whether those stories were true or politically motivated (her father and son both had reasons to keep her sidelined), she was declared unfit to rule and spent most of her life confined in a convent.
Their son? Just a little guy named Charles V, who would become Holy Roman Emperor and one of the most powerful rulers of his time.
Seeing all four of them entombed here—Spain’s unifiers and their tragically sidelined daughter—gave the chapel this fascinating royal energy. We even saw Isabella’s crown and scepter on display. They were surprisingly modest, yet carried the full weight of empire.
After all that history (and one failed ghost hunt), it was time for a siesta.
When we returned to the hotel we were thrilled to learn most of our group was planning to go to the same restaurant, Arrayanes.
Our walk to dinner took us through Granada’s Moroccan quarter, then up a long stretch of stairs that seemed to rise with every turn. The climb was worth it — with each step, the tiles beneath our feet changed, from smooth stone mosaics to colorful ceramic patterns. It felt like a hidden trail leading us somewhere special.
Many of our tour group was following Rick Steves recommendation for dinner Restaurante Arrayanes, a Moroccan spot tucked into a side street in the Albaicín. Rick’s photo was part of a photo collage on the wall, along with other important visitors. We even scored a discount.
But there was one very unexpected twist: We all tried to order wine or sangria—no luck. Turns out, many Moroccan restaurants don’t serve it. The table next to us—friends of ours—had the same experience, and we all had a good laugh over our collective disappointment.
On top of that, Bob ordered the beef kebabs expecting skewered cubes of grilled meat… and instead got what looked like Moroccan mini hamburgers. Totally unexpected, but still tasty.
I was still on the hunt for protein and went with chicken—but of course, the dish came swimming in olive oil, which managed to spill all over my pants. Meanwhile, Tim nailed it—he ordered a dish loaded with vegetables, and I was definitely craving those too. As much as we’ve loved the food on this trip, menus continue to be challenging—it’s often a game of guesswork, no matter how many translations you try.
So after dinner, a new mission began: find alcohol. We wandered the lively nighttime streets of Granada like pilgrims in search of wine and finally struck gold—a sidewalk café with glasses of wine and sangria ready to go. Under the stars, surrounded by friends and Granada’s glow, it was the perfect way to end the day.
An extra bonus our laundry was ready for pick up!
Happiness is Possible 