Our Natural Habitat Adventures trip officially started in St. George, Utah. We arrived the night before so we’d have time to explore a bit. Last night’s Uber driver told us to eat lunch at Cliffside, a restaurant perched right on the cliff with giant windows overlooking the whole valley, and to explore Pioneer Park, a 52 acre red rock park above town with trails, little slot canyons, and views all the way to Zion.
We woke up exhausted and managed to get moving in time to eat lunch. We called another Uber to head to Cliffside! He said you made a great choice!
On the way to lunch, the first thing that caught my eye was a painted bison standing outside a car dealership.
We jumped out of the car at Cliffside, so excited to see its famous views, only to discover it was closed. Turns out it’s closed on Sundays. Meanwhile, our Uber was long gone. We still took in the view from the bluff, with St. George spread out below us, red sandstone and black lava ridges all around, and the Pine Valley Mountains rising in the distance.
Lunch
I quickly pulled up Yelp to find somewhere that was open, and we called a new Uber to head into town. We landed at Café FeelLove, a French Bistro. Tim had a grilled sausage sandwich, and I had a club sandwich with lots of bacon. Both were delicious.
Ancestor Square
Next door is Ancestor Square, the historic heart of downtown, with pioneer era buildings, white picket fences, and hand cut sandstone. Standing on the corner is my new favorite piece of art: a life size horse built entirely from scrap metal. Look closely and you’ll find gears, springs, engine parts, and even pot lids. We also realized this is where we are heading back tonight.
Now I can’t stop singing “Spinning Wheel” by Blood, Sweat & Tears. There’s a line in it about riding a painted pony, and it has been stuck in my head all day!
Once we were in the car, our Uber driver talked us out of Pioneer Park. There’s no shade, and in the middle of the afternoon it would have been brutal. Instead, he dropped us at Red Hills Desert Garden right next door, and it turned out to be the highlight of the day for me.
Red Hills Desert Garden
We ended up at Red Hills Desert Garden, full of cactus, yucca, and desert plants that thrive in this heat.
The garden winds along a stream through red rock, cactus beds, agave gardens, and shady paths. The water isn’t just decorative. It’s a mix of untreated water from the Virgin River and Pine Valley, and it’s designed to mimic the habitat of the six fish species native to the Virgin River, several of which are endangered.
The Virgin River itself flows from above Zion National Park all the way to Lake Mead, and it’s the lifeline of this whole county.
The cactus garden was pure fun, with rows of golden barrel cactus lined up like little round soldiers. I couldn’t resist a photo with the CACTUS sign.
The highlight for me was the big dinosaur tracks. These are swim tracks! About 193 million years ago, this spot was the shallow shoreline of a lake. As dinosaurs moved through the water, their toes scraped the mud and their tails dragged behind them, leaving long grooves and three toed prints in the rock. Over time the mud turned to stone and preserved them for us to see.
A few more favorites: a bison sculpture sprouting grasses and succulents like a living shaggy coat, a walk through a sculpted sandstone arch, Purple Heart spilling over the rocks, and yuccas in full bloom.
Before we left, I spotted a giant white “D” on the Black Hill across the road, framed perfectly by a Joshua tree. It stands for Dixie, the nickname St. George earned after Brigham Young sent pioneer families here in 1861 to grow cotton in the warm climate. The letter became a symbol of those pioneers and the local college, and it’s still a beloved landmark today.
We ended our garden visit with a well earned rest in the shade of the pavilion.
Orientation
Late afternoon we met our group and guides for the trip orientation. The guides walked us through how the Grand Staircase connects Bryce, Zion, and the Grand Canyon as one giant series of rock layers across the Colorado Plateau. The trip is rated moderate, with hikes of 1 to 3 miles most days, early mornings for sunrise, and late nights for stargazing and sunset. The highlight hike will be the Queens Garden and Navajo Loop at Bryce Canyon, about 3 miles with 630 feet of elevation gain. We’ll be staying at Bryce Canyon Lodge and Zion Lodge, and there’s even a helicopter ride in the plans. I’m already excited.
Dinner at Painted Pony
Our welcome dinner was at Painted Pony Restaurant in Ancestor Square, and it set the tone for the whole trip. The glowing sign out front, the stained glass pony window, the fall garland, and the quirky paintings on the walls made it feel warm and a little whimsical.
I went with the charbroiled ribeye topped with fig butter and crispy brussels leaves. Across the table, the juniper brined pork chop came with a blue cheese and walnut stuffed pear and chipotle cornbread pudding. They even pour a Painted Pony Pinot Noir made from grapes grown right up the road in Dammeron Valley, Utah.
By the end of the night we were full, happy, and already getting to know our fellow travelers. Tomorrow we head to Bryce Canyon, with stops along the way.
